Hello mates, I need some help. I am in the process of fitting a dump valve in my Megane 225, thanks to the information you have posted now I am confident in the process I must follow, but still I need some information about the bore of the hoses needed in this job, the vacuum and the T-piece; finally which valve should I use a Bailey DV24 or DV26?
Many thanks and enjoy the power of the Megane 225.
I got my gauge coming off of the wastegate vaccum pipe but dont think this is correct as im in negative figures at the moment -0.5 at idle then -0.7 when its running and then -0.3 when i boot it ?!
anyone else experienced a wierd noise just prior to the valve dumping, its like a whoomp sound, strange!!! i have the blanking plate fitted and the valve piped up correctly. any ideas??? its a forge valve
admiral own bell i think and they charged me about £50-£100 cant remeber they will insure you with it but you'll have to pay for it mate. Didnt bother fitting one to the new megane tho, like the standard setup plus saves me paying for it on the policy.
Needs help on two things;
when putting on the blanking plate do i just put the hose which went to the original bov to my new hks?
And can anyone tell me what size are the bolts on the original bov so i can buy this flexible special tool to help me with it
1) yes, aftere u pull the original recirc valve and piping off, you will be left with an open connection, so you just connect that to your HKS with some vacuum piping.
2) i remember someone saying that the bolt head size is the same as the bolts that hold the heatshield in place.
Yeah i just checked it, i thought that it would be down somewhere far away but yeah, it was 10mm. Will give it a go on sunday, hope it comes off easily
im thinking about getting a forge dump valve,the gen ones off ebay,ive looked at the fitting guide on here looks simple enough,but whats theis about a blanking plate?
cheers
The forge dumpvalve comes with a blanking plate which replaces the valve on the turbo! Its best to change it for the best performance out of the dumpvalve! Also it could loose boost if you have both on at the same time!
The turbo makes the boost so the more the better! If you loose boost then it means the power from the turbo will die off a lot quicker!
Fitting the blanking plate will let the turbo hold the boost better and will only release threw the dump valve! It just makes things more efficient :yes:
The turbo makes the boost so the more the better! If you loose boost then it means the power from the turbo will die off a lot quicker!
Fitting the blanking plate will let the turbo hold the boost better and will only release threw the dump valve! It just makes things more efficient :yes:
I used a 10mm socket on a swivel joint on a long extension all on a 1/2" drive. I would have preferred to use 1/4" drive but I didn't have a swivel or extension in that size.
hopefully get an answer in here. as with most people i have broken the fitting ontop of the throttle body that goes to the brake servo. just wanting to know what the part number is so i can replace it, ive seen 8200549111 been mentioned but also some people saying it is the wrong part. another one ive seen is 8200557542, havnt seen anyone saying this is right or wrong tho. my car is an R26.
Well I finally got to my local renault dealer this week to get a replacement bit for on top of the throttle body, 8200549111 is the part number that they ordered for me and I got it a couple days later, I can confirm this is the correct part and fitting it took me less than a minute in the middle of all there cars they have for sale without any tools
Just bumping the old thread.
I fitted a Forge VTA valve but just blocked off the old valves pipe as I couldn't get the old valve plate off.
It turns out that I was losing a significant amount of power.
Could only make 0.96bar peak boost with the DV and old recirc on.
I have a stage 1 remap.
Reverted it to standard and was back up to 1.24 bar
Will leave the DV and blanking plate until I get the KTR induction kit
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