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    Thread: check injection esp/asr fault

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    1. #1

      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Location
      Sheffield
      Car
      megane 225
      Posts
      4

      Default check injection esp/asr fault

      When accelerating hard in 4th 5th n 6th from low revs the car goes in to limp mode about 3k revs and comes up with the check injection esp/asr fault. If i stop turn the engine off n on it goes off any ideas to what cud be causing the fault been to Renault but they have no clue. Cheers

    2. #2

      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Location
      Sheffield
      Car
      megane 225
      Posts
      4

      Default

      Any ideas????

    3. #3

      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      S****horpe
      Car
      ARTIC BLUE CUP 300
      Posts
      2,230

      Default

      Mine did this & it was the n75 valve.
      Lee

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    5. #4

      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Location
      Sheffield
      Car
      megane 225
      Posts
      4

      Default

      Cheers mate where's the valve located ?

    6. #5

      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      S****horpe
      Car
      ARTIC BLUE CUP 300
      Posts
      2,230

      Default

      It is on the intake pipe. It has 2 pipes & an electrical connector on it.
      Lee

    7. #6

      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Location
      Sheffield
      Car
      megane 225
      Posts
      4

      Default

      Nice cheers for that mate ill get it off at weekend.

    8. #7

      Join Date
      Feb 2015
      Location
      west cumbria
      Car
      Mazda6 MPS
      Posts
      1

      Default

      i have the same issue, can the n75 valve be cleaned/serviced or is it a matter of just getting a new one?

    9. #8

      Join Date
      Apr 2015
      Location
      Sydney
      Car
      RS265 RB7
      Posts
      6

      Default

      Yes, it can be cleaned.

      It's a bit fiddly to remove from the engine bay but it can be done with some simple tools most people will have: some strong pliers and a small flat blade screwdriver.

      Locate the valve, then using your pliers squeeze the clamp's clasp together and hold it while you lever & free the clasp using your small flat blade.
      Very simple once you figure it out, and even simpler to refit (squeeze together with the pliers til it clicks!).
      Be very careful when you pull the 3rd pipe out of the intake pipe because it's about an inch long and known to be frail. It's quite stubborn to pull out and when it does free, it will be sudden. Take note of how it's fitted into the intake pipe because it must be fully seated to be airtight.

      Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner or MAF sensor cleaner, spray it in each hole til it comes out of another hole.

      If you have any old/spare Bosch 2pin connectors lying around, make up a jumper cable and connect it to the N75/boost control solenoid valve. Observe the polarity marked on the side of the valve's connector.

      Then once you've shaken all the cleaner solvent out, spray some penetrating oil into each port. Let it sit for a few moments, then actuate the valve on/off several times. Do NOT hold the power on, but rather just click it on and off. If your valve doesn't click then it's time for a new one.

      This isn't an official fix but you'll find that most people have success after cleaning their valve (google boost control solenoid cleaning). I had a lazy turbo which i cured by cleaning the valve. It never logged any faults or engine light though.

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