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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've finally got round to fitting new rear brakes. Late last year I upgraded the fronts to Solid HC Brembos and went with Performance Ferodo Pads. For me, only commuting in the R26, I felt it was a great improvement.

I didn't much like the look of the Drilled OEM set up and after 4 1/2 years on the car, the fronts needed replacing. Due to lack of funds, I held out as long as I could to replace the rears.. 5 years old in March on original pads and discs...WOW. Time to replace.

I really wanted to match the look of the fronts with the rear. I know lots of you have the Solid HC Brembos but keep the drilled OEM's on the back. The only place I could get Solid Brembos for the rear was K-Tec. I bit the bullet and went for them (30mm bearing) and matched the pads (Ferodos)

I followed the guide on here. Which was really helpful, but it was done on a 225, and I didn't bother reading the comments underneath which would have saved me a couple of trips out for tools I needed (36mm socket....!!) and female torx and eventually a wind back tool as the pistons would just NOT budge! I don't know how you guys have done it with a long nose pair of pliers! You must have arms like the incredible HULK!


But anyway, I thought I'd share the results with you, let me know what you think...


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A big thanks to my Dad for helping out! Lots of swearing and tea and biscuits! But it is done! :partyhard:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks.

Yeah I did when I put them on the front with the new pads, but the original drilled discs and renault pads were ruined, but it felt like a totally different car. The rears only went on yesterday so I guess time will tell, but the look so much better and the handbrake is much tighter. Thoroughly recommend Solid HC Brembos :)
 

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I think its frightening the lengths people go to to save a few bob (those rears are terrible!) and you need to clean the salt out of the arches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I think its frightening the lengths people go to to save a few bob (those rears are terrible!) and you need to clean the salt out of the arches.
Do you mean the fact the previous owner never bothered changing the rear discs and pads in 4 years of ownership? Yeah it is a bit grubby! It's due a once over next week, will get the arches addressed!
 

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Thanks for the link mate thats the tool i ended up getting, f'in nightmare those pistons arent they!! All sorted now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the link mate thats the tool i ended up getting, f'in nightmare those pistons arent they!! All sorted now!
I couldn't believe it when I saw your post! But yeah you are right, those pistons are so tough to wind in. I was a bit annoyed having to spend £33 on a tool, they are cheaper from Amazon etc, but I needed it there and then. What set up have you gone for on the rear then?
 

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Yer exactly same as you, me and dad was cursing but hey, at least you have it now and we can keep it for every time we ever do rear brakes.

I was shocked tbh, my discs were shot so i got new ones but only had pads not even 10,000 ago and they had about 10% left!!

I stayed oem mate, got oem drilled and pads for £204... Wasnt gona argue!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Haha, how good is that. If I'd have known I would have done a proper guide for the R26, as the one I used is for a 225 I believe.

How hard are you driving it lol? It sounds like it might be the quality of the pads if you drive normally?

Fair enough, I like the look of the drilled when they are fresh. But I think my own rears put me off buying them again, judging from the pictures and the way they looked behind the wheels, I couldn't do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is it a DIY job fitting the discs due to the bearings or is it abit of a [email protected]?
As long as you are semi confident with tools and basic mechanical knowledge, its quite straight forward. The bearings aren't an issue as they are built into the disc and it just pushes on. The challenges you will face are things seizing, sticking and just generally being french :) But a bit of elbow grease will sort it. My main problem was the Piston popping out and it would not wind back in! Even though plenty of people on this forum have used a pair of long nose pliers and done it with one hand. I needed to buy the windback tool and it was fine, just quirks of each car by the looks of it
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hello Darren please can you measure the pin centres on your windback tool ?
1. Winder
14cm exactly in length, with a cross bar that slides to rotate the force depending on which direction you're winding. Width is roughly 3.5cm

2. Reaction plate
This allows you to lock in and grip the tension so that winding is easy. Without this plate, the whole thing won't work. 9.3cm in width and 4.3cm in height with the loop cut out to fit the main winder.

3. Double sided adaptor
This grips the piston itself. When you buy this the adaptor part flips over for different brands, the side for Renault is the side with wider pins (they sit in the designated seats on the piston)

What do you want measuring on the pins, the distance between them or the diameter? they are very small
 

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wow those old discs really are worn arnt they! feels nice having a new set on though doesnt it. I replaced mine all round with brembo HC, such a difference
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm thinking about it! I've got a 250 and the rear pads need doing, so considering doing the discs at the same time.
Yeah just get it done. you may as well, whilst you're in there!

wow those old discs really are worn arnt they! feels nice having a new set on though doesnt it. I replaced mine all round with brembo HC, such a difference
It felt great, and the pictures speak for themselves. The previous owner hadn't changed them in 4 1/2 years from new...FAIL
 
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