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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys any suggestions!!

my brakes have started to squeak and grind so im thinking new pads are needed.

do i just replace the pads or do i upgrade the whole lot and get them looking like the cup/trophy versions, any idea what that would cost bearing in mind i just have the standard 18" alloys and not the anthracite ones if that makes a difference :roll:
 

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I got brand new drilled discs n pads and they still squeak, with the amount of brake dust the 4 pots produce you cant really avoid it, I've heard of people filing an angle onto the leading edge of the pads that can help
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think squeaky brakes are a common problem on the megane. Mine makes a squeak when reversingsing with light application.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bucky Quote "I'd spend the money on smoething else (Remap, exhaust etc)"

Even more reason to upgrade your brakes me thinks :wink:

Jas
 

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The trophy disks are probably the best brake upgrade currently available. They may help with the squeeking by preventing the pads from glazing over.
 

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mine squeak and make a hissing sort of noise (i have a cup pack) but thay have amazing stopping power would defo go for cross drilled discs
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
since i started this thread the grinding has got a lot worse and can now be heard when im driving slowly!!

im thinking at the mo i will just change the pads as im hoping this is the most likely cause and then upgrade to the trophy discs later.

am i gonna be charged an arm and a leg if i take it to renault or would somewhere like motosave do the job??
 

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rothwell225 said:
since i started this thread the grinding has got a lot worse and can now be heard when im driving slowly!!

im thinking at the mo i will just change the pads as im hoping this is the most likely cause and then upgrade to the trophy discs later.

am i gonna be charged an arm and a leg if i take it to renault or would somewhere like motosave do the job??
Hi Mate, we can supply & fit new pads etc.. PM me for a price.

P.S. If you do go to another garage warn them about the pins which hold the pads in. Youl'll probably be best ordering some with the new pads and IF you have driven metal to metal you'll probably find your discs are also fooked :shock:

Paul
 

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Hmm - noticed a few common misconceptions about brakes here that hopefully I can help to put right...... (loooooong post alert!)

rothwell - there can be lots of causes of squeaking brakes - some pad materials just do squeak and there's nothing you can do about it :( If you've got a grinding noise however then it's worth getting it looked at VERY quickly. It might be as trivial as a trapped stone, but if the pads are down to the metal they need swapping out pronto before you fcuk the disk. It's also worth remembering that inner and outer pads can wear at dramatically different rates, so just because you've looked through the wheel and the visible pad looks Ok, doesn't necessarily mean that the inner pad isn't dead.

Jon is also correct, in that gently filing/sanding down the leading edge of new pads can help to stop them squeaking (as can a generous coating of anti slip compound on the back of the pad)

Denty - hmm - no offense mate, but (and with all due respect to Renault too) the trophy disks aren't necessarily that hot... let me explain....

The idea behind "drilled" disks (as I'm sure you all know) is to allow vapourised binding material from the pads to escape under heavy braking (otherwise you can get a trapped vapour layer between pad & disk and you definately don't want to go there :cry: ). A side benefit is that, yes, they may also help to de-glaze your pads, but grooved disks are much better for this.

They're not without their problems however.... True "drilled" disks are not in fact drilled - they're cast with holes in. The reason behind this is that drilling the disk weakens it - it creates stress razors from which cracks can propagate so drilled disks are in fact much more likely to fail due to cracking. Casting the holes in avoids this, but is very expensive.

But.... whilst "drilled" disks were a very good idea when they first came out this was a few years ago now and in the mean time pad technology has come on tremendously. Most modern pad materials do not suffer from gassing problems at all so there is no need for drilled disks (however they still get fitted - pretty much entirely for "cosmetic" reasons). If you look at a lot of racing teams nowadays then (those that aren't using carbon disks!) are mainly using solid (or maybe grooved) disks. Modern pad materials are so good that there's no need for anything else. This is also because the downside (if you can call it that) of modern friction materials is that they are very, very abraisive so disks wear quickly enough to be considered as consumables :shock:

To give you an idea, on my last (track) car I was using pagid rs14 carbon ceramic pads at about £140 a pair - and plain steel disks at £50 a pair - and the disks only lasted about two sets of pads they wear so quickly. Oh - and if you're sensetive to sqealing brakes don't even think about using carbon ceramic pads!

(btw the arguement is split on grooved disks between cosmetic/useful but most people I know/trust are still on the "useful" side)

To be fair, unless you do a lot of track work, you shouldn't have any porblem with cracking drilled disks, and you shouldn't have any need to use carbon ceraminc pads. If you want to improve brake performance however, then new pads are a good place to start (not sure yet what is standard on the 225 but will be finding out soon!). There are some very good "fast road" pads (Mintex 1144/1155, ferodo ds2000/2500 etc) out there which whilst still much better than standard pads are cheaper and easier to live with that carbon ceramics (did I also mention that these are not that great when cold???)

I hope that all helps (and sorry it was so long). That's not the whole story of course - I still haven't mentioned braided lines and (v. importantly) fluid, but I think I've said enough for now! Cheers all 8)
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
car sounds horrible at the mo, stopped sqeaking now its just grinding all the time, luckily its going in on weds for new pads front and rear and new ferodo discs as like mr m says they are a lot cheaper than going for the trophy discs and to be honest the car is most likely getting sold in the next few months (new civic company car :D )
 

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Mr M, standard pads are ferrodo 4446. At present wew can't find anyone who does replacement pads for the 225 except Apec and they are'nt really better than the standard fit except being £40 cheaper! EBC were supposed to be doing some in november 2005, but still no sign of them yet. Cup pack owners seen to think the brakes are'nt that bad so the discs must help some.

If you can find some upgraded pads be sure to let us know!
 

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Excellent, thanks for that Denty - and please don't get me wrong - I'm not saying the Cup brakes are bad (far from it - I've ordered the cup pack for mine!) merely pointing out that that might be more due to the pads than the holes in the disk :wink:

Not been too impressed by the EBC's personally in the past, (imho much better pads out there for the money), but a lot of people love them. You pays your money and makes your choice.

Suspect that if you've had no luck with pads I won't either, but I've got a couple of friends in the industry so to speak, so I'll see what I can dig up. I think the most probable line of attack will be the Brembo calipers - unless they're a one-off special for renault, there's bound to be something out there for them somewhere

Will let you know if/when I find anything
 

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Cup brakes may be better cos the car also has increased diameter master cylinder and EBD is deleted on cup pack. They would'nt do this if it was'nt better would they?
 

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denty225 said:
Cup brakes may be better cos the car also has increased diameter master cylinder and EBD is deleted on cup pack. They would'nt do this if it was'nt better would they?
Hi mate - spot on those defiantely make a difference :) The larger master cylinder will change the pedal feel - should make it firmer & shorter travel. Deleting the EBA will allow you to use the brakes much harder without the electonic nanny slamming them on full for you - a definite boon for track work!

Do you know if the EBA is off all the time or only when you disable the ESP :? ?? In an ideal world it would be nice to have it on for road use, and then be able to switch it off on track!
 
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